Tucked away on the cool southwest/sea-facing (False Bay and Table Bay) slopes of the Polkadraai Hills – one of my favourite Stellenbosch wine wards, lies one of South Africa’s smallest wine producers, Bein Wines.
With only 2 hectares under vine, and an unwavering commitment to Merlot, Bein is not just boutique, it’s brilliant, and brave!
Owned by veterinarians turned winemakers, Swiss couple Luca and Ingrid Bein, through hard work, patience and determination, have slowly started becoming iconic producers of Merlot.
None of this was planned. In fact, Luca and Ingrid never intended to become winemakers. In the 1980s, they were equine veterinarians on honeymoon in South Africa when the first seeds of their winemaking journey were quietly planted…
In 1993, the couple purchased the small farm (initially intended for holiday purposes) through the earnings made from their champion racehorse, Petrus (named after the iconic right-bank Bordeaux estate). Talk about a good investment! Luca takes a photo of Petrus off the wall, turns it around, and shows me how the owner of Chateau Petrus, Christian Moueix, signed the back. Pretty cool, I’ve got to admit!
1999 saw the Bein’s permanently relocate from Basel to Stellenbosch. Encapsulated by the buzz and culture of the Cape winelands, both Luca and Ingrid went on to study Oenology at the University of Stellenbosch, eventually producing their first vintage in 2002! By 2005, the small, but exceptional cellar was built.
Bein operates on a level of detail and dedication that’s inspiring. Everything is site-specific, down to the separate vinification of parcels, managed carefully to reflect the character of their loamy sand and decomposed granite soils, which rest on a deep clay base (perfect for Merlot). Today, the estate remains entirely off-grid, powered solely by solar, reflecting their thoughtful approach to winemaking, and sustainability.
I asked why Merlot was their focus variety. Expecting an answer driven by passion, the answer was rather simple, and straightforward. It was a viticultural decision. Originally surveyed by soil scientist David Simon, their site was best suited to Merlot or Chardonnay, and in the end, their hearts chose red.
Luca describes his winemaking ethos in one word, Nerdy. With a background in veterinary science, and a mind for innovation, the Beins apply precision viticulture across their 2ha estate, using technology and data to help manage their vines based on their unique characteristics and goals to bring the very best out of the fruit.
While Merlot doesn’t always enjoy the spotlight it deserves, Luca and Ingrid have built an impressive following by doing one thing exceptionally well. Their Merlot vines are some of the oldest virus-free examples in the country, making their wines especially pure and expressive in a region where leafroll virus can severely compromise quality.
I asked Luca if he had anything to say to Merlot “haters” out there. “Don’t hate what you don’t understand,” Luca said. “Merlot makes up 80% of Bordeaux plantings and people love Bordeaux, don’t they?”. I couldn’t agree more. Just because Paul Giamatti told you to dislike Merlot in the movie Sideways, doesn’t mean you should. Also, most of these world-class Cabernet Sauvignons you can’t get enough of, probably have a percentage of Merlot blended into them, helping make these wines far more accessible, and attractive to your palates!
When given the attention and site it deserves, Merlot can be elegant, structured, even exciting. That’s what Bein delivers, year after year. Their wines have featured in the Top 10 Merlot Awards every year since the competition began – proof that they have found excellence through focus and consistency!
If there’s one bottle that could convert any Merlot “hater” into a believer, it’s the Bein Merlot (flagship, black labeled). This flagship wine offers structure, balance, and clarity, giving way to a Merlot that’s both serious and sexy. The wine is matured for one year in small 225L French oak barriques (35% – 70% new oak – depending on vintage), and is then matured another year in bottle before its release. This Merlot boasts pronounced aromas and flavours of blackberry, black plum, black cherry, ripe strawberry, with cocoa, cedar, and subtle herbal undertones. The wine has amazing concentration, fresh acidity, full body, and a long, palate-seducing finish which is textural, and articulate. Luca described this wine not as the most expensive, but a wine priced according to efforts and costs behind the wine. He’s just so reserved, modest and logical. No, Luca, this wine is so close to perfect!
Bein gives wine enthusiasts a variety of Merlot categories to enjoy. From the classic world-class still reds, to a rose, to a vibrant, refreshing Cap Classique. At Bein, the sparkling is still referred to as MCC. A.k.a. Merlot Cap Classique!
Overall, the winemaking at Bein is simple but smart. Short macerations (around 14 days), moderate fermentation temperatures (25°C), use of newer and older oak barrels, and extended aging. It’s a formula that avoids over-extraction and preserves the wine’s typicity and balance, two distinguishing features that define the entire range.
Bein wines are available mostly via cellar door and direct online sales, with much of their production exported over to Europe. With a volume of only 15 000 – 20 000 bottles per year, it’s a rare find, but one worth seeking out – especially knowing that all winemaking duties are solely handled by Luca and Ingrid themselves, who are both in their 70s!
Many wineries may pursue what sells, the Beins chose what grows best, and stuck with it. The result is one of Stellenbosch’s most prolific, disciplined, and mouthwatering Merlot projects.
On my way out, Luca showed me the cellar, followed by a walk through the vineyards. The property is simply flawless, with the vines super well-maintained. And, you know what they say, “Happy vine, happy wine!”.
Buy the wine here.
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